Tag Archives: Lalique

Compact, Oui-kend Finds

I’m back with compact, oui-kend finds! A mixture of, dare you guess, compacts and a couple of French collectibles found at my local flea market, The Golden Nugget in Lambertville, NJ.

Avon Fan

Avon Fan Compact

A pair of Avon Fan Compacts (photo from the author’s collection)

To start, I picked up a couple of attractive compact cases used by the California Perfume Company for their Avon line in 1930.

The fan design was one of three proposed by designer, Andrew Shields for the Fillkwik Company of Attleboro, MA.

Fillkwik appears to be an offshoot of the Aetna Manufacturing Company.  The name is possibly taken from a 1917 cigarette case created and branded as “Fillkwik”.

Connected with both companies, Swedish immigrant Leonard Dahlgren either created or managed the Fillkwik Company. He applied for two patents in late 1920 and early 1921 for cigarette cases. And it appears this company only produced quality cases.

Around 1925, four investors looked for a manufacturer with the equipment to make small cosmetic containers . Fillkwik fit the bill and at age 50, Dahlgren may have been looking to sell.

Andrew Shields, the brains, along with Charles Agard probably provided the capital for the purchase. Charles Polsey had both the financial skills and experience manufacturing compact and vanity cases. And Felix Miller was a toolmaker experience in the manufacturing of high-end vanity cases.

A fifth man, Albert Mullen, may have been involved as well. Mullen was a co-founder of The American Perfumers’ Laboratories Inc, (aka APLI). APLI produced cosmetics such as powder, rouge and lipsticks and acted as a distributer for other cosmetic companies. It packaged their products in either in-house designed cases or though patent owed designs.

By 1927, APLI was looking for a reliable manufacturer of cosmetic case and Fillkwik fit the bill.

The typical large and heavy compacts of the early 1920s were out. Women wanted something slimmer, lighter and more colorful to reflect the new Art Deco style. Oblong shaped cases that contained face powder, rouge, and a metallic mirror were the go-to style.

In 1930 Fillkwik made a radical choice. It started with a decidedly deco design by Felix Miller. The case has descending steps on one side, Different from anything they ever produced before, Andrew Shields enthusiastically, embraced the new look. Three purely Art Deco shapes were designed and produced.

1931 Compact Advertisement

1931 Compact Advertisement (photo from collectingvintagecompacts.blogspot.com)

APLI publicity material announced the designs as the Cathedral, Fan and Romanesque.

Of the three cases, the California Perfume Company selected the fan shape for their Avon line of compact powder and rouge.

Unfortunately, though very attractive, the petite size proved impractical for the average 1930s woman.  Ladies were using face powder regularly throughout the day and evenings to “touch-up” their faces. The small size of the (Avon) Fan and the Cathedral compacts simply didn’t hold enough powder for repeated application without refilling or switching out the compacts.   Produced only in 1931, examples of the Fan compact are rarely seen today.

Avon Fan Compact

Note the polished metal mirror (photo from the author’s collection)

Avon Fan Compact

Variations of the interior (photo from the author’s collection)

And I picked up two! The interior of each compact varies from the other.

Marcel Franck Perfume Atomizer

I picked up the next item solely on its Art deco aesthetic.  It is heavy and while it does work, it could use a good shot of WD40!

Marcel Franck Perfume Atomizer

Marcel Franck Perfume Atomizer

The “Escale” mount (bulb) dates this piece to production between circa 1935 and 1972. This is an elegant and understated piece of Art Deco. The base is rectangular crystal and decorated with grooves in the thick ‘Baccarat’ style.

The Art Deco “bulb” is round and made of chromed metal. You dispense the perfume by depressing the disc decorated with concentric circles.

Marcel Franck Perfume Atomizer

Another view of the atomizer (photo from the author’s collection)

The Marcel Franck manufacturer is based in France and has been producing luxury perfume atomizers since 1882. Leopold Franck founded the company after seeing the popularity of perfumes and the early atomizers.

His son Marcel took over the business in 1907 upon Leopold’s death. Marcel was able to engage major crystal companies like Baccarat and Saint Louis, and the best glass artists (Lalique, Galle, Argy-Rousseau, etc.) for the bottles. All the containers are made in crystal or mouth blown Murano glass. By using precious materials such as crystal, brass, gold, palladium, etc., he turned atomizers into works of art. The Marcel Franck company quickly received worldwide recognition denoting quality and luxury.

The company, sold shortly before Marcels’ death, disappeared in the late 1990s.

Bernard Dennery, grand-son of Marcel Franck, decided to revive the brand in 2013. He launched two collections: Home and Purse atomizers.

 

Souvenir Photo Book

Paris souvenir photos

Paris souvenir photos

A souvenir photograph set of famous sights of France was my last purchase. These were, and still remain, a popular keepsake. Generally inexpensive, soldiers would pick these up to send home to show the folks back home where they’d been and what they’d seen.

Paris souvenir photos

Assortment of Parisian sights

This collection of 20 photos is complete plus 1.  The plus 1 is a picture of a soldier.  I like to think this young man included his picture to show his family he was alive and well.

Photo of the soldier found in the packet of Paris souvenir pictures.

The photograph of the soldier found with the Paris souvenir pictures.

 

You never know what you’ll find when hitting a flea market. Happy Hunting!                Chris & Anthony (the Freakin’ ‘tequen Guys)

Sources:

collectingvintagecompacts.blogspot.com/2011/03/fillkwik-attleboro-avon-and-apli.html

marcelfranck.myshopify.com/pages/about-us

 

The S.S. Normandie’s 80th Anniversary.

The Normandie arrives at Pier 88 North River for the first time. June 3, 1935

The Normandie arrives at Pier 88 North River for the first time. June 3, 1935

 

Jean Vernon bronze medallion for the maiden voyage.

Jean Vernon bronze medallion for the maiden voyage.

 

Of all the famous ocean liners to sail the North Atlantic, the most elegant and the one to epitomize the 1930’s the best was the French Line’s S.S. Normandie. Built to compete with the North German-Lloyd  record-breaking liners, Bremen and Europa and the unfinished Cunard-White Star superliner, Queen Mary, the Normandie was the first ocean liner to excede 1,000 feet in length. Originally the French Line envisioned the new ship as a larger version of their current flagship, the Il de France, a ship with a conservative hull and very modern interiors. During the early planning stage of the new ship, the French Line was approached by a Russian expatriate living in France since the revolution, Vladimir Yourkevitch. He had already proposed to the Cunard Line the idea of using a clipper bow and a bulbous forefoot beneath the water line for their new ship (the future Queen Mary). But the Cunard Line was too conservative and rejected these innovated ideas. The French Line embraced Yourkevitch’s designs and as a result the Normandie would be the most powerful steam turbo-electric propelled ship ever built and one of the fastest.

 

 

 

Originally known as T6, she was constructed at the Penhoet Shipyard at St. Nazaire on a 1017 foot slipway. The first sections of the keel were laid down in May of 1931. On October 29, 1932 T6, renamed Normandie, was launched. This was the French Line’s entry to the superliner realm and her attempt to win the Blue Riband as the fastest passenger ship on the North Atlantic. As stylish and modern as the Normandie’s exterior was, her interiors were a showcase for the finest, modern, French decor.

 

The Grand Salon

The Grand Salon

 

The rear of the Grand Salon.

The rear of the Grand Salon.

The Grand Salon featured a huge mural by Jean Dupas, entitled “The History of Navigation and tall illuminated glass pillars by Lalique.

 

Portion of Jean Dupas "The History of Navigation"

Portion of Jean Dupas “The History of Navigation”

 

The first class dining room was capable of seating 700 at a time. Illumination came from 12 Lalique columns and wall panels, plus two very large chandeliers on either end of the room. It is easy to see why the Normandie was nick named “the ship of light”.

 

The First Class dining hall. 305 feet long, 46 feet wide and three decks high.

The First Class dining hall. 305 feet long, 46 feet wide and three decks high.

 

Painting of the first class dining room, from the original brochure.

Painting of the first class dining room, from the original brochure.

 

One of the most popular public spaces on board was the Cafe Grill, which also served as a nightclub after hours. I love the chrome tube chairs that were in the Cafe Grill, I wish I had one of them in my collection.

 

The Normandie was the first ship to feature a full-sized theatre for shows and movies. Before this, movies were shown in the lounge and from this point on, all the major liners had theatres. With plush seats and indirect lighting, the Normandie’s theatre was almost the size of a legitimate theatre in a large city.

 

Here is a gallery of some of the other interior spaces –

 

 

And some of the Normandie’s staterooms –

 

The Normandie left it’s home port of Le Harve on May 29th, beginning her maiden voyage. After a brief stop in South Hampton, she began sailing across the Atlantic on May 31st. The Normandie won the Blue Riband, as the fastest ship on the North Atlantic, making the crossing from Bishop Rock, off the Cornish coast (the eastern most point of the North Atlantic shipping lanes) to Ambrose Light (the western most point and the entrance to lower New York Bay) in 4 days, 3 hours and 2 minutes. The Normandie took the Blue Riband away from the Rex of the Italian Line and arrived in Manhattan on June 3, 1935.  30,000 people were waiting at Battery Park, with another 5,000 on Bedloe’s Island, to greet her.

 

 

 

The Normandie in the North River on June 3, 1935. Image courtesy of Moving Image Department-George Eastman House

The Normandie in the North River on June 3, 1935.
Image courtesy of Moving Image Department-George Eastman House

 

 

As great a ship as the Normandie was, her class intimidated all but the most confident of travlers and as a result she often sailed below passenger capacity. In 1936 she was joined on the North Atlantic by Cunard-White Star’s, Queen Mary. The two great ships would trade the Blue Riband between them for the next several years as the fastest ships in the world. During the summer of 1939 as Europe prepared for the next war, the Normandie sailed from its home port of Le Harve on August 25th. She arrived in New York on August 28th and planned to sail back to France two days later. With Germany set to invade Poland at any moment, the French Line cancelled the August 30th sailing. Passengers waiting to sail on the Normandie were transferred to Cunard-White Star’s Aquitania. What no one knew at the time was that the Normandie would never sail again. With the outbreak of war in early September the French Line felt it safer to keep the ship in New York with a skeleton crew, rather than risk having her torpedoed.

 

The Normandie stuck in New York.

The Normandie stuck in New York.

 

After the fall of France in June of 1940,  the Treasury Department detailed 150 Coast Guard men on her and Pier 88 to protect her against potential sabotage. The week after the attack on Pearl Harbor, the Coast Guard took possession of the ship and on December 20, 1941 control of the ship passed to the Navy. Conversion to a troop ship began a week later and on January 1, 1942 she was renamed U.S.S. Lafayette.  On February 9th during the retrofit,  a spark from a workman’s welding torch set some life jackets on fire. The flames spread fast and by the middle of the afternoon the ship was ablaze. Trying to extinguish the fire so much water was poured into the ship that it began to list badly to port. Early the next morning the tugs holding the Normandie upright were ordered away and at 2:45 A.M. she capsized into the Hudson.

 

The capsized Normandie.

The capsized Normandie.

 

 

Salvage operations began in June and once the superstructure was removed the hull of the Normandie was raised. Floated to the Brooklyn Navy Yard in September of 1943, she was declared a total loss. Decommissioned after the war, she was sold for scrap in 1946 and was completely gone by 1947.

 

 

The salvage operation to right the U.S.S. Lafayette,

The salvage operation to right the U.S.S. Lafayette.

 

 

Leaving the Normandie as a capsized, burned hull, lying on her side at her Manhattan pier, is not the way that she should be remembered. Below is part of a French documentary about a 1938 voyage of the great ship. It features the best color film footage I’ve ever seen of the Normandie, including the magnificent interiors. Enjoy and imagine you are passenger sailing to New York like a 1930’s movie star.

 

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TN3LzbNieWI

 

 

Chris & Anthony (“The Freakin’ ‘Tiquen Guys”)