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The 17th World Congress on Art Deco© – Day Three

Poster art for the 17th World Congress on Art Deco.

Poster art for the 2025 World Congress. Image courtesy of the Paris Art Deco Society and ICADS.

Day Three – Wednesday, October 22nd

By the time we left our Airbnb, the over-night rain had passed.  The sun started to peak through the parting clouds and though damp, not too cold. We made our way through the Place du Trocadéro to the auditorium of the Cité de l’Architecture for the Wednesday morning lectures.

A damp morning on the Place du Trocadéro.

Morning on the Place du Trocadéro.

Pigeon resting on a Trocadéro Esplanade statue.

Catching a pigeon taking a rest on top of Flore by Marcel Gimond (1864 – 1961), one of the statues at the Palais de Chaillot, on our way to the lectures.

As with the previous morning we enjoyed our coffee, juice and croissants before settling in for the lectures.

Lectures

The morning began with a welcome and a history of the International Coalition of Art Deco Societies (ICADS), by artist / author and president of the founding president of the Art Deco Society of the Palm Beaches, Sharon Koskoff.

Sharon Koskoff giving the opening remarks on Wednesday morning.

Sharon Koskoff giving the Congress attendees the history of ICADS.

Following this welcoming address were the four morning lectures. All were excellent, but the one that stood out the most to us was the one given by Lucile Trunel about Parisian department stores involvement at the 1925 exposition.

The Art Workshops of the Grand Department Stores, Showcases of Art Deco

Lucile Trunel - The Art Workshops of the Grand Department Stores, Showcases of Art Deco

Lucile Trunel – The Art Workshops of the Grand Department Stores, Showcases of Art Deco

Lucile Trunel, chief librarian and director of the Forney Library, delivered her lecture immediately after the mid-morning break. The Forney Library, renowned for its focus on decorative arts, crafts, and applied and graphic arts, provided an apt context for her presentation. Trunel explored the origins of artist workshops between 1900 and 1924 and their collaborations with major Parisian department stores. She highlighted developments ranging from Paul Poiret’s Martine Workshop, founded in 1911, to Paul Follot’s Pomone workshop created for the Bon Marché in 1922.

 

After lunch, the various groups of Congress attendees departed the Cité de l’Architecture for their respective afternoon tours. Our group boarded a bus to the Musée des Arts Décoratifs for the opening day of 1925–2025: A Century of Art Deco.

Some Sites Seen from the Bus

Pont Alexander Bridge III

Pont Alexander III Bridge connecting the Champs-Elysees quarter to the Invalides and Eiffel Tower quarter

Palace de la Concorde

Luxor Obelisk located at the Palace de la Concorde

Musée des Arts Décoratifs

1925-2025, A Century of Art Deco

Musée des Arts Décoratifs on the rue de Rivoli.

The facade of the Musée des Art Décoratifs on the rue de Rivoli, with banners for the 1925-2025, A Century of Art Deco.

The museum also had running an exhibit on legendary Parisian fashion designer, Paul Poiret (1879 – 1944), Paul Poiret, Fashion is a Celebration.

Banner for the Paul Poiret Fashion is a Celebration exhibit at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs.

Banner for the Paul Poiret Fashion is a Celebration exhibit.

After a short walk from where the bus dropped us off, we arrived at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs. We needed to wait outside the main entrance briefly to coordinate with our museum tour guide. However, the day was pleasant and partly sunny, so none of us minded getting a bit of fresh air.

Looking up at the main entrance to the Musée des Arts Décoratifs.

The main entrance to the Musée des Arts Décoratifs.

1925-2025. One Hundred Years of Art Deco will be running through April 26, 2026 and is one of the most spectacular exhibits ever curated on the interwar style.

Journey to the heart of the Roaring Twenties’ creativity and its heritage masterpieces with the exhibition. Sculptural furniture, precious jewelry, objets d’art, drawings, posters and fashion pieces: nearly 1,000 works tell the story of the richness, elegance and contradictions of a style that continues to fascinate.

                madparis.fr

I can’t begin to tell you how exciting this exhibit is and how much that we enjoyed seeing it, despite the hoards of people. On display were so many objects that we’ve only seen in books. And immediately upon entering the exhibit is one Art Deco’s most iconic pieces, ironworker Edgar Brandt (1880 – 1960) L’Oasis screen (1924).

L’Oasis (1924), metal screen by Edgar Brandt.

“The formal symmetry of the screen and the small scrolls reflect Brandt’s early, classically feminine repertoire, while various newer elements allude to the emerging style moderne. The ripples of falling water and the crimped gearlike flowers also show the influence of a machine-inspired aesthetic, with its emphasis on movement and speed”.

         Kahr, Joan, ed. (2010). Edgar Brandt. art deco ironwork. Atglen, Pa: Schiffer. Pg. 143

At the center of the five-panel brass and iron screen is a “frozen fountain,” a celebrated decorative motif emblematic of the Art Deco era.

The Frozen Fountain

Jet d’Eau panel by René Lalique (1860 – 1945). Frosted and clear glass featuring a stylized water fountain motif. Created for the facade of the ticket office at the 1925 International Exposition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts.

Édouard Bénédictus’ (1878 – 1930) cotton and rayon textile Les Jets d’Eau (1925). Woven by Brunet-Meunié et Cie.

"Roses" designed by Paul Iribe, 1914Léon-Charles Follot (1869 – 1933), wallpaper manufacturer, 1920. Continuous mechanical printed paper in four colors. Aluminum impregnated paint used to add shine.

Art Deco Bas-Reliefs and Medallions

Bas-reliefs by the twin sculptors Jan and Joël Martel (1895–1966), executed in their signature style that fuses Cubist abstraction with realism. The works feature simplified, stylized figures built from strong geometric forms, balancing modernist structure with recognizable human and architectural elements.

Raymond Delamarre (1890 – 1986) medallions. Perseus and Andromeda (left) and Nessus and Deianira.

 

Metalwork

Edgar Brandt, Porte Les bouquets, interior grille

Edgar Brandt, Porte Les bouquets, interior grille or wrought iron and silver. This gate was exhibited at the 1925 exposition.

Grille Paons by Jean Perot

Jean Perot designer Leon Conchon manufacturer Grille Paons, 1922

Some of the furniture in the exhibit

Boris Gosser Sketch

Boris Gosser’s sketch for Madam Goult’s bedroom at a French Embassy. The chair is pictured below.

Fire Screen by Clément Mère, 1923

Fire Screen by Clément Mère, circa 1923. Made of Macassar ebony, engraved and patinated ivory and embroidered silk.

Carl Hörvik and Erik Gunnar

Carl Hörvik cabinet, 1925 and Erik Gunnar’s “Källemo” chair circa 1930

 

Furniture by Émile-Jacques Ruhlmann

Jacques-Emile Ruhlmann

Hat cabinet: Macassar ebony, burr walnut, ivory, 1924

Jacques-Emile Ruhlmann

Detail of the central medallion

Émile-Jacques Ruhlmann's liquor cabinet "Bar on Skis".

Émile-Jacques Ruhlmann’s liquor cabinet “Bar on Skis”, circa 1930. Primarily made of Macassar ebony and nickeled bronze.

Eileen Gray

Six panel screen in abstract modernism by Eileen Gray.

Six panel screen / room divider in abstract modernism by Eileen Gray (1879 – 1976).

Eileen Gray's "Sirène" armchair and "Brick" screen

“Sirène” (Mermaid) armchair (circa 1913) and “Brick” screen (1922).

Study-Library of the French Embassy

Another highlight of the exhibition is Pierre Chareau’s (1883–1950) Study–Library, created for the “French Embassy” pavilion at the 1925 Exposition. The circular room was covered by a dome and lined with palm-wood walls, some of which held built-in bookshelves. At the center was a desk with angled corners and an armchair, placed on a rug decorated with a stylized mermaid designed by Jean Lurçat (1892–1966).

Art Deco for the Home

Raymond Templier

A variety of cigarette case. Bottom row left and center are by Raymond Templier.

Rene Lalique

René Lalique console, “Surtout Grenouilles et Poissons” (Especially Frogs and Fishes), 1905

Leather bound journals

A variety of leather bound books and journals

Jean E. Puiforcat

Jean E. Puiforcat tea service circa 1925

l'Exposition internationale des Arts décoratifs Ceramic exhibition

Left to Right: Pierre Patout covered pot (1925), Joseph Ekenberg sgraffito vase (1920), Félix Aubert and Léon-Charles Peluche (1925)

Jeanne Lavin and Shalimar

Jeanne Lavin (1924). Shalimar Introduced at the 1925 exhibition, remains popular today

Camille Faure (1872-1956), Jean Goulden (1878-1946)

Top  left and right: Camille Fauré designs on gauche for Limoges and Limoges plate.                                                Bottom left: Jean Goulden LX Casket, 1928

Swedish interior design company Svenskt Tenn

Examples of Swedish interior design company Svenskt Tenn

Poster Art

Poster advertising Artists at the Marsan Pavillion

Poster for the Museum of Decorative Arts at the Marsan Pavilion

Advertisements for the exhibition

Collage of advertisements for the exhibition

Jean Carlu

Union Des Artistes Modernes poster by Jean Carlu, 1931. Fans, clockwise from top: La Maritrise department store (Gabriel Ferro circa 1926), Parfume Pompeia L.T.Piver (Mich aka Michael de Ghelderode, circa 1912), Galeries Lafayette (Gabriel Ferro, 1926)

Art Deco in Fashion

1925 Paris exhibition

Japanese silk Haori jacket. Exhibited in the Japanese Pavilion, 1925.

Art Deco Influence on Travel

Deco Travel

Jacques Gruber, stained glass window for a railway station.

Transportation whether by land, sea or air was not immune to the influence of the Art Deco movement. The expression of speed and sleekness is a recurring motif in textiles, jewelry, and tableware. Gleaming chrome and luxury fabrications are integral to the deco period.

 

Deco Travel

Air France Menu

Deco Accessories

Deco Travel

Ghiso, Paris: diamond, platinum and onyx bracelet

 

The Revival of the Orient Express

Musée des Arts Décoratifs.

The Revival of the Orient Express

Famous in it’s day  as one of the most luxurious ways of travel, the Orient Express is perhaps best known as the setting for Agatha’s Christie’s book, and subsequent films, The Murder on the Orient Express.

The once abandoned carriages found on the Poland / Belarus border serve as the inspiration rather than a faithful reproduction for the new car scheduled to be put into service in 2027.

Revival of the Orient Express

Top: Original marquetry panels. Bottom: reinterpreted panels.

Notifications

The Orient Express

Reproduction of an original first class private dining room.

The Orient Express dining cars

Reinterpreted dining car

The Orient Express dining cars

A view of the new bar car.

A notable decorative feature of the original cars are the father and daughter Lalique panels. Examples of the pressed glass molded onto silver leaf are included in the museum display.

These originally decorated the Cote d’Azur Pullman, also known as the Blue Train (another Agatha Christie reference!) The father / daughter team worked on several monumental projects together including the fire pot for the S.S. Normandie dining room.

What we have shown in this post is only a small sample of this wonderful exhibit running till April 26, 2026.

Paul Poiret, Fashion is a Celebration

Paul Poiret Exhibit

Portrait of Paul Poiret by Andre Derain

With about 45 minutes left before meeting the bus, we decided to visit the Paul Poiret exhibit.

Poiret (1879-1944) born to humble beginnings, worked himself up from apprentice umbrella maker to independent couturier. One of his first successes was a mantle (cape) used on stage by the actress  Réjane in a play called Zaza, In marketing to the theatres, his once thought of as too forward thinking designs, literally found their audience.

He opened his Maison in 1903 and moving away from petticoats and corsets while opting for loose-fitting designs for the slender figure.

His Maison became another causality of World War I.  Returning from service, he found his business on the brink of bankruptcy. His ornate clothing, beautiful at a distance, but not as well made up close, were eclipsed by new simple, sleek and well produced clothing by designers such as Chanel.

Poiret closed his house in 1929, working at odd jobs until his death. HIs friend from pre-WWI, France Martano, often entertained hm in her home to ensue he was food secure, Almost forgotten when he died, another friend, Elsa Schiaparelli paid for his funeral.

Featured in the exhibit are Poiret fashion art prints for advertisements original sketches.

Paul Poiret Exhibit

Magazine fashion plate featuring Poiret designs

Paul Poiret Exhibit

Georges Lepape fashion art (1913) featuring Poiret design.

 

Paul Poiret Exhibit

Original sketches

Paul Poiret Exhibit

Paul Poiret designs

Paul Poiret Exhibit

Clients wearing Paul Poiret designs

The exhibit is broken into several rooms to provide a mix of mediums for the patron’s enjoyment. Included are examples of fashion influenced directly by Poiret.

Paul Poiret Exhibit

Robe, Martinique 1922

This is only a small sampling of the creations on exhibit. And due to time constraints, we could only visit half of the two story exhibit.

After a quick dash through the Musée des Arts Décoratifs’ store, we rushed to the designated pickup spot to catch the bus back to Place du Trocadéro.

The Palais Garnier from the Avenue de l'Opéra.

View of the Palais Garnier from the Avenue de l’Opéra, snapped on our way to the bus.

We were on our own for dinner that night, and our Airbnb host recommended a spot just around the corner. We showed up right after it opened at 7:30, but it was already fully booked, so back to Le Wilson we went.

Le Wilson

Tonight’s special – duck breast with pommes frites and blister tomato

Le Wilson

Anthony enjoying his banana split

A nice convenience in Paris are the Sanisettes. These are public restrooms and are often free. They are not gender or gender expression specific.

A foggy and misty night, the search light on the Eiffel Tower was, at times, the only thing visible of the structure itself.

Night-time in Paris

The fog had lifted for few seconds – oh, look! The Eiffel Tower!

Chris & Anthony (The Freakin’ Tiquen Guys)

Sources

Online

architecturaldigest.com

europeana.eu

lagoradesarts.fr

madparis.fr

Written

17th World Congress on Art Deco© Program

 

 

Compact, Oui-kend Finds

I’m back with compact, oui-kend finds! A mixture of, dare you guess, compacts and a couple of French collectibles found at my local flea market, The Golden Nugget in Lambertville, NJ.

Avon Fan

Avon Fan Compact

A pair of Avon Fan Compacts (photo from the author’s collection)

To start, I picked up a couple of attractive compact cases used by the California Perfume Company for their Avon line in 1930.

The fan design was one of three proposed by designer, Andrew Shields for the Fillkwik Company of Attleboro, MA.

Fillkwik appears to be an offshoot of the Aetna Manufacturing Company.  The name is possibly taken from a 1917 cigarette case created and branded as “Fillkwik”.

Connected with both companies, Swedish immigrant Leonard Dahlgren either created or managed the Fillkwik Company. He applied for two patents in late 1920 and early 1921 for cigarette cases. And it appears this company only produced quality cases.

Around 1925, four investors looked for a manufacturer with the equipment to make small cosmetic containers . Fillkwik fit the bill and at age 50, Dahlgren may have been looking to sell.

Andrew Shields, the brains, along with Charles Agard probably provided the capital for the purchase. Charles Polsey had both the financial skills and experience manufacturing compact and vanity cases. And Felix Miller was a toolmaker experience in the manufacturing of high-end vanity cases.

A fifth man, Albert Mullen, may have been involved as well. Mullen was a co-founder of The American Perfumers’ Laboratories Inc, (aka APLI). APLI produced cosmetics such as powder, rouge and lipsticks and acted as a distributer for other cosmetic companies. It packaged their products in either in-house designed cases or though patent owed designs.

By 1927, APLI was looking for a reliable manufacturer of cosmetic case and Fillkwik fit the bill.

The typical large and heavy compacts of the early 1920s were out. Women wanted something slimmer, lighter and more colorful to reflect the new Art Deco style. Oblong shaped cases that contained face powder, rouge, and a metallic mirror were the go-to style.

In 1930 Fillkwik made a radical choice. It started with a decidedly deco design by Felix Miller. The case has descending steps on one side, Different from anything they ever produced before, Andrew Shields enthusiastically, embraced the new look. Three purely Art Deco shapes were designed and produced.

1931 Compact Advertisement

1931 Compact Advertisement (photo from collectingvintagecompacts.blogspot.com)

APLI publicity material announced the designs as the Cathedral, Fan and Romanesque.

Of the three cases, the California Perfume Company selected the fan shape for their Avon line of compact powder and rouge.

Unfortunately, though very attractive, the petite size proved impractical for the average 1930s woman.  Ladies were using face powder regularly throughout the day and evenings to “touch-up” their faces. The small size of the (Avon) Fan and the Cathedral compacts simply didn’t hold enough powder for repeated application without refilling or switching out the compacts.   Produced only in 1931, examples of the Fan compact are rarely seen today.

Avon Fan Compact

Note the polished metal mirror (photo from the author’s collection)

Avon Fan Compact

Variations of the interior (photo from the author’s collection)

And I picked up two! The interior of each compact varies from the other.

Marcel Franck Perfume Atomizer

I picked up the next item solely on its Art deco aesthetic.  It is heavy and while it does work, it could use a good shot of WD40!

Marcel Franck Perfume Atomizer

Marcel Franck Perfume Atomizer

The “Escale” mount (bulb) dates this piece to production between circa 1935 and 1972. This is an elegant and understated piece of Art Deco. The base is rectangular crystal and decorated with grooves in the thick ‘Baccarat’ style.

The Art Deco “bulb” is round and made of chromed metal. You dispense the perfume by depressing the disc decorated with concentric circles.

Marcel Franck Perfume Atomizer

Another view of the atomizer (photo from the author’s collection)

The Marcel Franck manufacturer is based in France and has been producing luxury perfume atomizers since 1882. Leopold Franck founded the company after seeing the popularity of perfumes and the early atomizers.

His son Marcel took over the business in 1907 upon Leopold’s death. Marcel was able to engage major crystal companies like Baccarat and Saint Louis, and the best glass artists (Lalique, Galle, Argy-Rousseau, etc.) for the bottles. All the containers are made in crystal or mouth blown Murano glass. By using precious materials such as crystal, brass, gold, palladium, etc., he turned atomizers into works of art. The Marcel Franck company quickly received worldwide recognition denoting quality and luxury.

The company, sold shortly before Marcels’ death, disappeared in the late 1990s.

Bernard Dennery, grand-son of Marcel Franck, decided to revive the brand in 2013. He launched two collections: Home and Purse atomizers.

 

Souvenir Photo Book

Paris souvenir photos

Paris souvenir photos

A souvenir photograph set of famous sights of France was my last purchase. These were, and still remain, a popular keepsake. Generally inexpensive, soldiers would pick these up to send home to show the folks back home where they’d been and what they’d seen.

Paris souvenir photos

Assortment of Parisian sights

This collection of 20 photos is complete plus 1.  The plus 1 is a picture of a soldier.  I like to think this young man included his picture to show his family he was alive and well.

Photo of the soldier found in the packet of Paris souvenir pictures.

The photograph of the soldier found with the Paris souvenir pictures.

 

You never know what you’ll find when hitting a flea market. Happy Hunting!                Chris & Anthony (the Freakin’ ‘tequen Guys)

Sources:

collectingvintagecompacts.blogspot.com/2011/03/fillkwik-attleboro-avon-and-apli.html

marcelfranck.myshopify.com/pages/about-us