Author Archives: freakintiquenguys@gmail.com

Patterns in our lives

 

So, inspired by our blog you’ve redecorated your bedroom with colorful walls, chrome accents, period art work – a true deco boudoir. Then using the reference library you’ve overhauled your living room into a masterpiece of streamlined furnishings with warm accents and one-of-a-kind vintage art. Impassioned, you worked your way room by room until your home is a showplace to the art deco period.

 

Your inspired creation

 

Still, something is missing. No, something is wrong! What could it be? Then it happens. You glance into the cobalt trimmed mirror, framed by exquisite French glass sconces hanging over your rosewood side table and you see yourself. Tee-shirt and jeans, or worse, flannel pajama bottoms and a hoodie! After all the work you’ve put into making a stylish home and here you are looking like a shlump.

 

This will never do; but what to do?

 

Our male identifying readers have it a bit easy. With a bit of research and effort, you can approximate the style and panache of “then” with available contemporary clothing or thrift store finds.  Generally speaking lapel and tie widths, fit of the armhole (which have become so impossibly low that you can no longer comfortably raise you arms), and a proper hat (not the thin brimmed, poor excuse for fedora currently so popular) represent the majority of fashion changes to men’s apparel. The exceptions, perhaps, being the nerue jacket (which I think are sort of cool) and leisure suits (what’s not to like about double knit polyester with contrast stitching – definitely NOT cool) of the late 60’s / early 70’s.

 

 

For female identifying readers, as usual, things will be a bit more difficulty for you. By-and-large and depending on the era you are trying to emulate, there are essentially few options available to you: thrift stores (not likely), vintage clothing shops (limited choices/sizes at premium prices) or the most readily available to you – make it yourself.

 

 

Being the frail, sheltered, noble-minded and thrifty people you are, you’ll use the skills passed down from mother to daughter for generations. You will experience the joys of taking a flat sheet of material, hand sewing the seams and creating that one-of-a-kind creation, trimmed at the throat and cuffs with the lace you tatted – surely the envy of your friends!

 

 

 

All kidding aside, I will not be instructing you on how to sew a dress. (Yes, I heard that collective sigh of relief!)  What I will be writing about is an easy, fairly inexpensive, decorative and, for some, a useful collectible – vintage magazines and commercial (clothing) patterns.

 

First a brief history:

 

Ellen Curtis Demorest is credited with marketing the first commercial paper patterns in 1860.  Patterns were available by mail-order via her magazine, Mme. Demorest’s Mirror of Fashion.  Prior to this, most women would take apart worn-out garments and use them as a pattern to recreate the garment. Only women of means could afford to wear the newest styles coming out of Paris and New York made for them skilled designers and tailors.  Mme Demorest’s goal was to bring the latest European styles to the home sewer.  Successful in this, she sold her business in 1887.

 

 

 

Three years after Mme Demorest started her company, Ebeneezer Butterick, introduced graded (different sized) patterns marked with sewing reference points and printed on tissue paper – for boys and men! He did not produce patterns for ladies until 1866. His biggest contribution to the pattern industry was the deltor (sewing instruction) that came with each pattern.  Prior to this it was assumed women had enough experience to construct the garment without assistance. By 1867, Butterick was also selling patterns via mail-order through the Ladies Quarterly of Broadway Fashions and in 1868 via the monthly Metropolitan.  Butterick launched his own magazine in 1873 called The Delineator as a vehicle to sell his patterns. It quickly became one of the most popular women’s magazines in the country and is collectible in its own right.  Expect to pay from $5-$20 depending on condition.

 

 

By 1903, Butterick was one of the largest manufacturers in the world.  Many pattern companies followed throughout the years with varying success. Vogue (1905 by mail order), McCall’s (1920’s), and Simplicity (1930’s) were the most successful. A late comer to the business was Burda. Made in Germany, they were first available in the U.S. in 1970 and known for their “hard to sew” reputation. These companies are still producing patterns to this day.  (As a sewer, I find McCall’s and Butterick patterns give the most satisfactory result.  Simplicity runs a bit big; Vogue runs a bit small and Burda, true to its reputation, is “hard to sew”.)

 

 

 

Condition, completeness, rarity and the designer are important factors if you are collecting for investment. The envelopes should be free of tears and creases.  All pattern pieces and the deltor should be in their original, unused condition.  Day-wear tends to have a lower value due to the sheer volume available; unusual special-occasion wear or limited pattern runs designed by big name designers command premium prices.  Generally speaking, patterns are fairly easy to find and range in price from $1.00 to $10.00.  Rarer patterns can go for hundreds of dollars!

 

 

Should you decide to collect a few (they look great framed), you may note that the sizes are somewhat at odds with preset-day patterns.  They can be sized by age (because every female is the same size at the same age) or by “then” sizes.  For example, size 14 then would be a 32″ bust with 35″ hips while today size 14 is 36″  bust and 38″ hips.  It may not seem a lot but any woman knows what a difference of a few inches can make in fit and comfort. (Get your minds out of the gutter.)

 

 

 

Sizing was fairly standardized between various companies in the early 20th century but it wasn’t until 1968 that patterns were sized up to their current proportions. The big four (McCalls, Butterick, Vogue, and Simplicity) currently offer some reissues of their vintage line in contemporary sizes.

 

 

Realizing that millions of women were looking to their favorite stars for inspiration, patterns featuring stars and starlets studios produced Hollywood Patterns.  Those featuring Lucille Ball are extremely desirable.

 

 

 

For more information on the history of commercial patterns: http://vintagefashionguild.org/fashion-history/vintage-patterns   http://www.collectorsweekly.com/sewing/patterns

 Chris – Half of the “Freakin’ ‘Tiquen Guys”

 

Fiesta 101: Part Two 1937 – 1938


Fiestaware Dancing Lady Logo

*Post Updated June 22, 2019: Due to recent information regarding Fiesta with stripes, the section on striped Fiesta has been moved to Fiestaware 101: Part 1.

From 1937 – 1938 Fiesta introduced new pieces, redesigned others, eliminated some and added a new color.

 

March 1937 Eliminations

 

12 inch Compartment Plate

12 inch Compartment Plate. Production Dates: January, 1936 – March, 1937

 

As mentioned in the first Fiesta post, designer Frederick Rhead and Homer Laughlin executives listened carefully to suggestions from store owners. One being that the 12 inch compartment plate was too large and heavy for easy use. It was eliminated after being in stores for only 14 months. Even though it had a short production life and is a bit hard to find today, the 12 inch compartment plate only has a book value of $52.00 to $78.00 and can usually be found for less.

 

Mixing Bowl Lids.

Mixing Bowl Lids. Production Dates: August, 1936 – March, 1937

 

Removed from the Fiesta line at the same time were the mixing bowl lids. These never sold well, probably because they cost almost as much as the bowls they were made for. Having been produced for only seven months the lids are among the rarest pieces of Fiesta and have a corresponding high value. Mixing bowl lids sell between $900.00 for the smallest for the No. 1 bowl and $1,200.00 for the No. 4 bowl lid (the largest size in production). Lids for the three largest bowls were modeled and tested but never put into regular production.

 

March, 1937 Additions

 

Another rare piece of “Fiesta” is the cake plate. I’ve used quotes around Fiesta because there is speculation if it was produced for the line or for the Royal Metal Manufacturing company, to be sold with a chrome metal base. Lending credence to this confusion is the fact the cake plate was never listed on any Fiesta price list.

 

 

The cake plate looks very much like the 10 inch dinner plate, except that it is completely flat and the underside has many more rings. In fact this piece has more rings than any other piece of Fiesta. Introduced in March of 1937 and discontinued in less than a year, the cake plate is only found in the original five colors of Red, Blue, Green, Yellow and Old Ivory. I’ve only seen this piece for sale a couple of times since I started collecting vintage Fiesta and each time the it was over $1000.00.

 

 

The 101/2 compartment plate. Production Dates: March, 1937 - June, 1959

The 10 1/2 compartment plate in Blue (Cobalt). Production Dates: March, 1937 – June, 1959

To replace the 12 inch compartment plate, Homer Laughlin scaled it down to 10 1/2 inches and it proved to be a success. This version stayed in the Fiesta line for 22 years. The book value for these plates which can be found in the original five colors, turquoise and the 1950’s colors, is between $40.00 and $95.00. With some hunting and luck most of these plates can be purchased for about $25.00.

 

 

Medium Teapot in Green. Production Dates: March, 1937 - July, 1969.

Medium Teapot in Green.
Production Dates: March, 1937 – July, 1969.

 

The medium sized teapot (6 cups) is another item that was introduced  thanks to suggestions from retailers and complaints that the 8 cup teapot was too big and hard to handle. It is called medium, because a smaller two cup teapot was modeled but never went into production. Characteristics of the medium teapot to differentiate it from the large teapot is the “C” handle, a more pronounced spout and a slip cast lid and finial (the same style finial found on the mustard jar). The medium teapot is found in all 11 vintage Fiesta colors. Values for this piece $200.00 for the original five colors, $165.00 for the turquoise, $300.00 for the colors of the 1950’s and $1,600.00 for medium green (a color introduced in 1959 and is the rarest of all Fiesta colors).

 

 

fiesta_vintage_water_tumbler_radioactive_red_fiestaware_original

Water Tumblers. Production Dates March, 1937 – November, 1946.

Water tumblers were only in production for 9 years which is the reason that they are somewhat hard to find. The book value for water tumblers range from $60.00 – $75.00. When they are found, the prices are not too much lower than the book values.

 

Yellow, Green and Blue Tumblers. Molded in Fiesta mark on the bottom.

Yellow, Green and Blue Tumblers. Molded in Fiesta mark on the bottom.

 

 

January, 1938 Additions

 

Turquoise becomes the sixth Fiesta color. Back in 1935, Turquoise was in the running but  cut from the line up of colors going into production. In the fall of 1937 Homer Laughlin decided to add it and by January of 1938 it was in the stores. Turquoise had the second longest run of any Fiesta color, 32 years. Only  being surpassed by yellow, but just by one year. Fiesta pieces in these two colors are usually the ones easiest to find today.

 

Medium Teapot, Bud Vase and Marmalade in Turquoise.

Medium Teapot, Bud Vase and Marmalade in Turquoise.

 

 

Another retailer suggestion was a smaller sized fruit bowl and  the 4 3/4 inch bowl was the answer. Stylistically is matches its larger counterpart the 5 1/2 fruit bowl and the 8 and 9 inch nappy bowls. The small fruit bowl remained in the Fiesta line for almost 22 years, being discontinued in November, 1959. These bowls can be found for around $20.00 – $25.00 (and sometimes for even less) in the 1930’s – 1950’s colors. The 4 3/4 inch fruit bowl was only in production for five months after the medium green color was introduced in June of 1959 and the value jumps significantly to about $600.00.

 

4 3/4 inch Fruit Bowls. Production Dates: January, 1938 - November, 1959.

4 3/4 inch Fruit Bowls. Production Dates: January, 1938 – November, 1959.

 

The 11 3/4 inch fruit bowl was originally planned for Homer Laughlin’s Kitchen Kraft line as a salad bowl. The switch to the Fiesta line required a slight change of design and instead of being plain on the inside, the familiar concentric rings were added to the bowl and the Fiesta molded in mark was placed on the bottom.

 

 

Even though this piece was in production for nearly 9 years, it is not easy to find today. And as such has a correspondingly high book value, $305.00 for a yellow one on the low-end up to $360.00 on the high-end for a red or cobalt.

 

 

 

The sauce-boat is one of the few serving pieces that once it made it into production was always part of the line. After Fiesta became Fiesta Ironstone in 1970 the sauce-boat was still being produced, but in only three colors and minus the molded in mark on the bottom. It has also been part of the post ’86 Fiesta line. Since 1997 an “H” was added to the mark on the bottom of pieces to help them from being confused for vintage Fiesta. But knowing your colors will be your best defense from buying a new piece at vintage prices. Most sauce-boats are found in the $40.00 – $75.00 dollar range with the elusive medium green one selling for over $200.00.

 

January, 1938 Elimination

 

The one piece eliminated from the Fiesta line at the beginning of 1938 was the covered onion soup bowl. This bowl must have been just too formal for the casual dining atmosphere that Fiesta and the other solid color dinnerware lines were striving to create. The combination of not selling well to begin with and a short production life has made the covered onion soup a very hard to find and very expensive piece to add to a collection. The value of this piece in the original five colors usually ranges between $400.00 – $700.00. Because of being discontinued around the same time that turquoise glaze was introduced, very few onion soups are found in this color. The book value for turquoise onion soup is $6,000.00 – $7,000.00 and some have sold for over $10,000.00.

 

The very rare turquoise covered onion soup.

The very rare turquoise covered onion soup.

 

 

July, 1938 Elimination

 

The stick handle creamer was the only item eliminated from the line in July 1938 being replaced by the ring handle style creamer. One reason that was given for the change was that the stick handle creamer was somewhat difficult for left-handed people to use. The book value ranges from $43.00 (yellow) – $65.00 (red, cobalt & ivory). Because turquoise stick handle creamers were only in production for 7 months it has a higher value at $79.00.

 

 

July, 1938 Additions

 

Fiestaware Green Ring Handle Creamer. Production Dates: July, 1938 - July, 1969.

Fiestaware Green Ring Handle Creamer. Production Dates: July, 1938 – July, 1969.

 

 

The stick handle creamer was restyled using the same body but having the iconic ring handle applied.  This piece is available in all 11 vintage Fiesta colors and is easy to find between $25.00 – $40.00. The exception is medium green; expect to pay around $100.00 for that one.

 

 

Ring Handle Creamer in Red.

Ring Handle Creamer in Red.

 

 

12 inch oval platter, yellow. Production Dates: July, 1938 - July, 1969.

12 inch oval platter, yellow. Production Dates: July, 1938 – July, 1969.

 

In production for 31 years the oval platter is easy to find in all colors. As with all medium green pieces, expect to pay a premium price of around $165.00. The other colors are in the $35.00 – $60.00 price range.

 

Green 12 inch platter.

Green 12 inch platter.

 

 

 

Perhaps the most iconic piece of Fiesta, the “disc water pitcher” was not originally part of the line. Added to the line in July of 1938, it is still in production today and is available in all Fiesta colors, vintage and post ’86. Aside from color, the easiest way to distinguish a vintage disc pitcher from a modern one is to look inside where the handle joins the upper rim, vintage ones are smooth whereas the newer pitchers have a distinct dimple. Although a relatively common piece values range from $110.00 – $165.00 for the original six color. The fifties colors range $230.00 – $255.00 and the medium green top them all at $1,550.00.

 

 

The Iconic Fiestaware Disc Pitcher.

The Iconic Fiestaware Disc Pitcher.

 

 

Only 31 years to go (you lucky people). Part three of Fiesta 101 will look at the 1939 – 1943 promotional campaign.

 

Anthony & Chris (The Freakin’, Tiquen’ Guys)

 

For Fiesta 101: Part Three Click Here.

Photos: Personal collection, Vintage American Pottery, Strawser Auction, Replacements and Pinterest.