Tag Archives: Cincinnati Union Terminal

Driving For Deco 2024 – Cincinnati Part Three: Union Terminal

Union Terminal Vintage Postcard.

Vintage Union Terminal postcard. Image from oldpostcards.com

Brunch

Sunday was our last full day in Cincinnati, and we began by a return to the Over-the-Rhine neighborhood for brunch. Settled by a large German population in the 19th Century, the area is noted for large collection of brick buildings constructed between the 1860s and the 1880s.

St. Francis Seraph Church and School

The Mellowtone Beer Project.

Mellotone Beer Project brewery in the former Taft Ale House in a former Over-the-Rhine church.

Not far from the former Taft Ale House and St. Francis Seraph Church was Alcove by Madtree Brewing where we stopped for brunch. This was another of Suzanne’s excellent recommendations. Located on Vine Street in another 19 Century building, it has a bright and open atmosphere. And the food is very good, too.

Alcove by Madtree Brewing. Photos by oswaldco.com.

After brunch we headed back to the Netherland Plaza where we said goodbye to Suzanne and we headed off to the Cincinnati Museum Center at Union Terminal for an early afternoon tour.

Cincinnati Museum Center at Union Terminal

The front facade of the Cincinnati Museum Center at Union Terminal.

The front facade of the Cincinnati Museum Center at Union Terminal.

Ten years ago, on our way home from “freakin’, tiqeun” in Texas, Chris and I paid a visit to Union Terminal. Tours are given on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays but unfortunately, it was a Wednesday.

Chris and Anthony’s 2014 visit to Union Terminal. 

Therefore, we made sure not to leave Cincinnati this time without taking one. For more information about the tours click this link for the Cincinnati Heritage Programs.

History

The culmination of thirty-five years of work, Union Terminal would consolidate all five of Cincinnati’s train depots and seven railroads under one roof.

Placard showing Cincinnati's five depots.

Cincinnati’s five depots that were replaced by Union Terminal. Placard from the Cincinnati Heritage Programs.

1900 photograph of Lincoln Park and its lake.

Lincoln Park, circa 1900. Image from wikipedia.org.

The new terminal site replaced popular Lincoln Park and its lake. With this in mind, the architects, Alfred Fellheimer, Steward Wagner and Roland Wank, incorporated beautiful landscaping and a fountain and pool as compensation for the park’s loss.

Fellheimer and Wagner gave the task of actually designing the terminal to a younger employee Roland Wank. Wank’s original design featured traditional Gothic styling.

Early design drawing of the Rotunda.

Early design drawing of Cincinnati’s Union Terminal Rotunda. Originally published in the Cincinnati Enquirer, June 2, 1929.

During the early stages of construction, the terminal company persuaded the architects to employ Paul Phillippe Cret as a design consultant. And it is In this capacity that Cret altered the design from Gothic to Moderne. It was more cheerful than the original design, and more importantly less expensive to build, so his changes were approved.

In 1928 the regrading of Mill Creek began in preparation for the new station. Costing $41,000,000 ($1,001,885,500.000 in 2025), the actual construction began in August, 1929. Plans for Union Terminal did not halt despite the stock market crash the following October and construction continued on schedule through the worst of the depression.

Cross-sectional drawing of the rotunda of Union Terminal.

Architectural cross-section drawing of the Union Terminal rotunda, by Fehlheimer and Wagner. Image from the Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Collection.

The official opening date was set for March 31, 1933. However, flooding of the Ohio River caused four of the city’s downtown train stations to be shut down and trains started to use the terminal almost two weeks earlier on the 19th.

Train service peaked at Union Terminal during the Second World War. But, after the war, train travel began a steady decline caused in part by the creation of the interstate highway system and competition from airlines.

Subsequently, the last passenger train stopped at Union Terminal on October 29, 1972 less than forty years after opening.  Luckily abandonment did not mean demolition and in 1978, a shopping mall found a home in the former train station.

Union Terminal during the short time that is was being used as a shopping mall.

Union Terminal as the department store Loehmann’s, late 1970s. Image from Wikipedia.

The mall subsequently closed in the early 80s. Then in 1990, the building became home to the Cincinnati Museum Center at Union Terminal. And best of all, Amtrak began to use the station again in 1991.

The Exterior

The front exterior of the Cincinnati Museum Center at Union Terminal from the parking lot.

The approach to the Cincinnati Museum Center at Union Terminal from the parking lot.

At the end of the two long, landscaped drives is the Cincinnati Museum Center at Union Terminal. And looking very much like the Justice League of America’s Hall of Justice, the front of the half dome rotunda forms an enormous arch that welcomes visitors.

The turned off fountain in front of the Cincinnati Museum Center at Union Terminal.

Being winter the fountain in front of the museum center was not running.

Inside the arch are windows separated by wide mullions. New windows, mimicking the original’s texuture and appearance, replaced the deteriorating 1933 Magnalite Glass ones, in a 2010 renovation.

At the arch’s center is a large, 16-foot diameter illuminated clock. The clock’s face is white glass with red glass marking the hours and red neon outline the clock hands, making it easy to read from a great distance.

Detail of the illuminated clock on the facade of the Union Terminal.

Detail of the illuminated clock. Photo taken in 2014.

Two wide pilasters flanking the half dome’s front facade have figures in bas-relief.  Designed by Maxfield Keck (1880-1943), the 30-foot figures represent transportation in female form and commerce in male form.

Fine-grained Indiana limestone over a low granite base covers the exterior of the terminal. With the only exception being Cold Spring rainbow granite around the main entrance under the marquee.

The Cold Spring rainbow granite used around the main entrance under the marquee.

The Cold Spring rainbow granite around the main entrance under the marquee. Photo from 2014.

Flanking the rotunda are the three former passage ways for automobiles, taxis and buses for dropping off and picking up travelers. Museum exhibitions now occupy these passage ways.

Front of Union Terminal showing the entrances to the former passage ways.

Front of the Union Terminal showing the former passage way entrances.

The Rotunda

Cross-sectional drawing of the rotunda of Union Terminal.

Architectural cross-section drawing of the Union Terminal rotunda, by Fehlheimer and Wagner. Image from the Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Collection.

The Cincinnati Heritage Tours begin in the rotunda. The main hall of the former train station is said to be the largest half dome in the western hemisphere and measures 180 feet across and raises up to a height of 106 feet.

The rotunda of the Cincinnati Museum Center at Union Terminal.

The rotunda of the Cincinnati Museum Center at Union Terminal.

Just inside the main entrance stands the museum ticket counter, With the exception of a couple of video monitors and a no longer functioning digital clock, it looks very much like it did in 1933 as the information booth.

The former information stand turned into today's ticket booth.

The former information booth, now the Cincinnati Museum Center’s ticket booth.

The architects thoughtfully designed every detail of the station, right down to the floor. Using different shades of cream, gray and rose terrazzo divided by brass strips, the patterns created helped to visually guide travelers to important sections of the station.

The rotunda’s lower walls are of two types of marble. The baseboard is of Domestic Rouge antique, and Red Verona marble is used for the high dado, sides, soffits and passages. Panels are either flat or cylindrical and have aluminum decorative strips at the joints. And topping each cylinder is a frosted glass light.

The lower wall treatment at Union Terminal.

Lower wall treatment.

Looking toward the entrance of the rotunda.

Looking toward the front of the rotunda.

No doubt, the concentric circle and stepped ceiling and arch of acoustical plaster are the most stunning features of the terminal and the building is a marvel of construction; it hangs from double walled concrete over a steel frame.

As concrete is porous and steel rusts, this combination can severely compromise the bond between the two.  This is what happened when the building was largely abandoned, making parts of the building unstable. Remediation of this issue was a large part of the restoration.

Heading upstairs we passed by several small rooms now used for storage and building supplies. During the war they were used as small bedrooms where servicemen could take a quick nap before billeting out. The tour starts at the upper-level walkway seen in the above picture just over the main entrances.

Touring the Union Station Terminal

View from the second level walkway

From this vantage, there is an excellent view of two of the now eight Winold Reiss’s mosaic murals in the terminal. These two large panels, 22′ x 110′ in size, contain hundreds of thousands of individual pieces of glass, and depict both the history of Cincinnati and the United States from the Native American to the modern citizen. German born Reiss emigrated to the United States in 1913. He quickly gained fame for his work of strong graphic designs as well as his commercial interior work, which included the Longchamps chain of restaurants.

Winold Reiss "signature" in glass mosaic on one of the rotunda's murals.

Winold Reiss’ “signature” on the History of the United States mural in the terminal rotunda.

Terminal Offices

From here we headed to the office of H. A. Worcester. As president of the terminal, he was responsible for the day to day operations. Protecting the inner sanctum is the executive secretary office. Her responsibilities included maintaining business files, overseeing the master key locker and handling guests.

Union Terminal Executive Office

The secretary’s desk – a first line of defense.

Through the glass panel doors is a small lounge with access to a cloak room, powder room and president’s conference room. Opposite the built-in cabinetry are the curved doors leading into the president’s office.

Union Terminal's president's Office

View from inside the president’s office. presidents office.

The office is surprisingly small, but sumptuous as befitting the president of an important organization. The curved entrance wall and built-ins give counterpoint to the industrial elements in the room.

Union Terminal president's office

A comfortable chair behind an art deco desk.

Industrial lighting is built into the mullions between the windows.

Union Terminal President's office

Cast aluminum lamps.

Across from his desk is a streamlined fireplace with deco andirons, and a marquetry map of the USA fills the space above.  Just to the right of the fireplace is an inconspicuous door leading to the boardroom. 

Union Terminal president's office

Art Deco fireplace and andirons to keep him warm in the winter.

The board room is quite large, as expected, with bands of alternating dark and light cork and cast aluminum accents.

The Union Terminal board room.

With the exception of the flat screen TV the board room looks very much the same in 2024 as it did in 1933.

Leather and burl wood banquettes with integrated ash receptacles, line the wall.

Union Terminal boardroom

Looking toward the door coming from the president’s office.

Union Terminal boardroom

Banquette at the end of the room with integrated ashtrays.

Union Terminal boardroom

Display shelving

Details of the Union Terminal boardroom

Cast aluminum hardware

The exit door on the south side of the board room opens to the waiting room for guests of the president. Access to this room is primarily through the secretary’s office. It is a relatively small space and features veneered walls with a tan and light and dark brown cork floor. And a specially designed settee offers a place for waiting guests to sit.

The reception room for guests waiting to see the terminal's president.

The Formal Dining Room

The formal dining room of Union Terminal.

Union Terminal’s formal dining room, looking west.

This space has changed little from when the terminal first opened over 90 years ago. The windows to the west originally looked down on the platforms and the north and south walls have a series of mirrors separated by columns giving the illusion of the dining room extending into infinity. Originally at the base of each mirror was a planter with ferns to soften the hard edges of the woodwork and mirrors.

A small bar located at the eastern side of the dining room is underneath a balcony, that was used by small orchestras on special occasions.

The bar and balcony on the eastern wall of the formal balcony.

The small bar and balcony at the eastern side of the dining room.

Dark wood and aluminum inlays break up the lighter wood veneer of the lower walls. And above it all is a Pierre Bourdelle’s (1901 – 1966) ceiling mural featuring a map of Cincinnati, the terminal, other city landmarks and framed by four modes of transportation.

Pierre Bourdelle's Cincinnati map ceiling mural for the formal dining room.

Pierre Bourdelle’s Cincinnati map ceiling mural for the formal dining room.

And like all of the other public spaces, the floor is covered in terrazzo. For the dining room it is alternating slabs of pink and gray, separated by thin brass strips.

Formal dining room's terrazzo floor.

Detail of the formal dining room’s terrazzo flooring.

Lunchroom

Hostess counter of the Lunch Room.

The former hostess counter at the entrance of the Lunch Room.

A curved counter with display cases at either end greets one when entering the Lunchroom. Originally, this is where customers paid their bills after eating. The counter features two polished chrome uplighter lamps that focuses their light up to the Bourdelle ceiling mural. Hanging from the middle of the mural is a modernistic metal and frosted glass Saturn ring light.

Lunch room entrance ceiling light detail.

Detail of the ceiling light in the entrance for the lunch room.

Although the original serpentine counter is missing, the lunchroom has changed little over the years.

Union Terminal Lunchroom.

Union Terminal Lunchroom.

The marble tops of the now removed counters were of Vermont Verdi with a dado of red Verona. Surrounding the counter were aluminum stools with red leather upholstered seats and backs.

Lunchroom looking toward the north.

Lunchroom looking toward the north.

Surrounding the lunchroom red Verona walls rise to the height of the entrance’s drop ceiling and a band of green Campani separate it from the windows and painted panels above. The lunchroom’s barred ceiling is painted in a buff tan.

Detail of the polished aluminum and frosted glass lunchroom ceiling lights.

More Bourdelle paintings of different food themes form a border around the lunchroom’s upper walls.

The upper walls of the Union Terminal’s Lunch Room showing some of the food themed border by Bourdelle.

The Hallway leading from the rotunda to the lunch and dining rooms, features an  abstract Bourdelle ceiling painting.

A Bourdelle ceiling mural in the hallway from the rotunda to the dining rooms.

The Bourdelle ceiling mural in the hallway that leads from the rotunda to the station’s dining rooms.

Women’s Dining Room Lounge (Alcove)

The carved linoleum mural in the former Women's Dining Room Lounge.

Bourdelle’s carved linoleum mural in the former Women’s Dining Room Lounge.

Perhaps Bourdelle’s most spectacular mural is in the former Women’s Dining Room Lounge across from the Lunch Room. It is a fanciful jungle scene made from carved linoleum.

Details of the Jungle Mural.

Newsreel Theatre

Many large rail terminals had newsreel theatres. For .25¢, travelers could spend an hour watching the latest news and short subjects in air conditioned comfort. And Union Terminal was no exception with an intimate theatre running newsreels produced by the Scripps Howard News Service. Around 1948 it was rechristened the Terminal Art Theatre and programming switched to the exhibition of foreign films.

Circa 1933 photo of the interior of the newsreel theatre.

Circa 1933 photograph of Union Terminal’s New Reel Theatre. Photo from cinematreasures.org.

The 118-seat theatre featured more linoleum carved murals by Pierre Bourdelle, that were removed at some point, or have been covered over. Today railroad themed videos are shown in the former newsreel theatre.

The former newsreel theatre.

The former Union Terminal Newsreel Theatre.

Looking toward the back of the theatre. Chris is in the shadows of the second photo.

Theatre doors.

The doors leading from the auditorium to the lobby.

Tan marble, separated by aluminum strips cover the lobby walls while other inlaid aluminum strips create modernistic wall decorations. The white doors feature black ziggurat stripes, a very popular decorative effect in the 1920s and 1930s.

Box office door.

Box Office door.

2014 photo of the newsreel theater entrance.

A 2014 photo of the Newsreel Theatre entrance, showing the now removed Scripps Howard sign.

Rookwood Ice Cream Parlor

After the end of the tour, we wanted a snack and we were happy to see that the Rookwood Ice Parlor was open.

Rookwood Ice Cream Parlor welcome sign.

Rookwood Ice Cream Parlor welcome sign.

One steps back in time when entering the Rookwood Ice Cream Parlor, an original feature of the terminal. It was first constructed as a tea room, serving travelers and locals alike.

Rookwood Tearoom

Original view as the Tearoom. (Photo via Alamay.com)

The Rookwood trademark tile.

The Rookwood trademark tile in the Tearoom / Ice Cream Parlor.

The space was converted into the first USO transit lounge in the country. It is thought that one out of every five World War II serviceman passed through the station. 

Rookwood Ice Cream Parlor

Looking from the far corner.

It only closed when the building shuttered in 1972. But when the terminal reopened as a shopping mall, the Rookwood Ice Cream Parlor was born.

Rookwood Ice Cream Parlor

All original except for the tables and chairs.

Rookwood Ice Cream Parlor Tiles

Close-up of some of the bespoke tiles.

Attributed to Rookwood artist and designer William E Hentschel, whimsical faience tile is used throughout. The tiles are bespoke, and precious, and irreplaceable. And each tile is valued between a few hundred and a few thousand dollars.  And due to the careful conservation and preservation, the parlor looks almost as exactly as it did on opening day.

Rookwood Ice Cream Parlor

Overhead lights in the same style as the fixture in the lunch room.

Rookwood Ice Cream Parlor

A view into the past.

An interesting feature of the parlor are the large picture windows at the end which overlook the The Museum of Natural History & Science Dinosaur Hall next door. So, you can enjoy your treat with a dinosaur!

Rookwood Ice Cream Parlor

Original functioning water fountain.

Still thirsty after after your sugary treat?  Sate your thirst by using an original water fountain right outside the Rookwood Ice Cream Parlor doors.

With our snacks finished it was time to leave Union Terminal and head back to the hotel. The next day as we hit the road back home, there was still one more Deco stop to visit.

Chris at Union Terminal.

Chris enjoying his afternoon at Union Terminal.

Chris & Anthony (The Freakin’ Tiquen Guys)

 

Sources

Written

Cincinnati Union Terminal – The Design and Construction of an Art Deco Masterpiece

The Cincinnati Enquirer

Online

cincymusuem.org

frenchsculpture.org

wikipedia.org

winoldreiss.org

Driving For Deco 2024 – A Look Back on Where We’ve Been: Part One – Netherland Plaza

Cincinnati

Vintage Cincinnati postcard.

Vintage Cincinnati postcard from hippostcard.com.

The bi-annual New York Pier Antique Show was an event that Chris and I always looked forward to. We attended our last on in November, 2015. But due to increasing rental fees, the shows were discontinued in New York City soon thereafter.

November, 2015 – Chris heading to Pier 94 for our last Pier Antique Show. The interior of the pier as set up for the show.

Since then, we have traveled other places for similar shows. In 2019 we went to the DC Big Flea. And our friend Meg and I (Chris was in Vegas for a nephew’s birthday) attended the DC Modernism Show in 2022.

Last February, to kick off our 2024 Driving for Deco, Chris and I drove down to Cincinnati. Both to meet up with our friend Suzanne, and for the 20th Century Cincinnati Vintage Modern Expo. And for this trip, we decided to make it full out Art Deco. Starting by staying at the Hilton Netherland Plaza Hotel, and a planned tour of Union Terminal. Finally, stopping at the Xavier University Alumni Center on our way back home.

This was also the inaugural journey for our newest Freakin’ Tiquen mobile, Tachi (short for pistachio)!

Tachi ready to go on her first long road trip.

Ready to test Tachi on her first long road trip.

On the road to Cincinnati.

On the road to Cincinnati.

Passing through Columbus, Ohio we drove by the LeVeque Tower. Originally built as the American Insurance Union Citadel in 1927, today it is a boutique hotel under Marriott ownership. And I imagine we will be staying there sometime in the future since Ohio is a place we often go “freakin’ tiquen”.

The LeVeque Tower, Columbus, Ohio.

Passing the LeVeque Tower, Columbus, Ohio on our way to Cincinnati.

A couple of hours later and we pulled into the garage of the Hilton Netherland Plaza in downtown Cincinnati.

Hilton Netherland Plaza

Years ago I spent a Christmas Eve at the Netherland Plaza hotel, so I knew what to expect, but this was Chris’ first time to this wonderful Art Deco hotel.  The Netherland Plaza hotel is part of multipurpose complex that includes the Carew Tower and a shopping arcade.

Night view of the Carew Tower from Fountain Square.

Carew Tower at night from Fountain Square.

HISTORY

Real estate developer, John J. Emery came up with the idea for the complex that included a hotel that would rival New York’s Waldorf-Astoria. To assist with the financing Emery partnered with William A. Starrett. The two decided to use Starrett Brothers as the general contractor using the architectual firm of W. W. Ahlschlager & Associates, which designed the Roxy and Beacon Theatres in Manhattan and the City Place Tower in Oklahoma City, among other notable buildings. Much of the interior decoration is credited to theatrical designer George Unger.

1930 construction photo of the Carew Tower and the Netherland Plaza Hotel in downtown Cincinnati.

Construction of the Carew Tower and Netherland Plaza Hotel, 1930. Photo from Facebook.

Construction started in September, 1929 and might have ended with the collapse of the stock market just a month later. But to have more cash to put into the project, Emery liquidated his stock before the crash and the complex opened in early 1931 to great success.

Atlanta Constitution newspaper advertisement for the Netherland Plaza Hotel.

Atlanta Constitution advertisement for Starrett’s Netherland Plaza Hotel shortly after its opening. Atlanta Constitution, February 2, 1931, Pg. 6.

1930s view of the lobby - lounge of the Netherland Plaza Hotel.

Netherland Plaza Hotel’s lobby – lounge, circa 1935. Image from Walking & Pocket Tour History Netherland Plaza.

The hotel’s interior public spaces are some of the best examples of French Art Deco design in the United States. In the 1960s many of the hotel’s original details were looking dated and were covered over with paint, plywood and vinyl wall covering and bland carpeting in an effort to modernize the interior.

1960s Hall of Mirror makeover.

Hall of Mirror’s late 1960s makeover. Image from Walking & Pocket Tour History Netherland Plaza.

With the revived interest in Art Deco in the 1970s and 1980s, the public spaces were restored to their original glory in 1981 at a cost of 28 million dollars. Thanks to the hotel’s meticulous restoration it is on the National Historic Register and earned National Landmark status. Alastair Duncan, in his seminal 1986 book American Art Deco had this to say of the Netherland Plaza –

                   Art Deco predominates among an eclectic mix of Beaux-Arts, rococo, and  Egyptian  Revival themes. The Art Deco was plucked unashamedly from 1925 Paris; designs by  Edgar Brandt, in particular, are repeated in balustrades, chandeliers, and the molded borders on the rococo-style ceiling murals. The Continental Room, the Hall of Mirrors,  and the Palm Court, the last mentioned with sea-horse torchères and a fountain in Rookwood Pottery, are replete with replicas of high style French art moderne. The lavish ambience, so unexpected in Midwestern America, continues to astonish today’s hotel  guests.

CAREW TOWER ARCADE

A hallway of tan travertine with black marble trim and a painted gold frieze connects the basement garage to the Carew Tower arcade. At the top of the tiered ceiling hang rectangular light fixtures of frosted glass. The wall is lined with brushed aluminum vent grilles of stylized flora and display cases also framed in brushed aluminum with modernistic finials.

Passageway from the parking garage to the shopping arcade in the Carew Tower.

Hallway from the underground garage to the Carew Tower arcade.

Passageway from the parking garage to the shopping arcade in the Carew Tower.

Detail of decorative grille in hallway from the underground garage to the Carew Tower arcade.

Hallway display case.

Display case in the underground hallway.

From this hallway one can either take elevators directly to the hotel or enter the Carew Tower Arcade. Lined with shops, the two-story arcade entrances are framed in polychromatic Rookwood Pottery tiles of modernistic floral and geometric design.

Carew Tower arcade.

Looking down the Carew Tower arcade.

Closer view of the Rookwood Pottery tiled entrance.

Closer view of the Rookwood Pottery tiled entrance.

Bottom detail of one of the Rookwood Pottery frames in the Carew Tower Arcade.

Detail of the bottom of the Rookwood Pottery frame.

Tan and black marble line the arcade topped by a marble framed aluminum geometric border. Above that is a tray ceiling with dark maroon painted plaster leading up to the silver leaf ceiling. Indirect lighting illuminates the ceiling, providing most of the light for the arcade. Diamond shaped, indirect lighting pendants hang from filagree brass medallions on the ceiling.

Ceiling pendant and medallion.

Detail of the indirect light pendant and brass ceiling medallion.

Separating  tan and black marble pilasters are panels of black marble inset with tan marble striated with strips of aluminum. The panels also feature cast metal modernistic allegorical figures.

Detail showing corner of the arcade and store.

Detail of arcade store, pilasters and ceiling light fixture.

The allegorical figures representing the sun, sky and land.

On our way to the lobby to check in, we passed these other Art Deco features.

Carew Tower Vent Grille and Mailbox

LOBBY

You are able to enter the hotel from several entrances. This is, perhaps, the most stunning of all. Deep teal walls offer a contrast to the gold accents and Roman Breccia Marble.

Main entrance of the Carew Tower

Looking toward the main entrance of the Netherland Plaza Hotel.

Detail of frieze above entrance door.

Detail of frieze above entrance door.

Main entrance of the Carew Tower

Main entrance of the Netherland Plaza Hotel looking up and into main lobby.

You can also enter from the side street.  It is to the right of the picture above.

Side entrance of the Netherland Plaza Hotel.

Street view of the side entrance to the hotel.

Side entrance of the Netherland Plaza Hotel.

Detail of the metal frieze and pendant lamps.

Side entrance of the Netherland Plaza Hotel.

Looking back toward the side street entrance.

To the left of the grand staircase, and through beautiful milled rosewood, is the hotel’s elevator bay. No surface was considered too unimportant. Note the etched design on the elevator doors.

Elevator bay at the Netherland Plaza Hotel.

Beautiful mill worked wood leads to the elevator bay.

Decorative elements abound as you head up the main staircase. Beautiful  sconces, and intricately carved wooden urns flank the staircase. And decorative brass floral metalwork act as low safety barriers where different floor levels meet.

At the first landing, guests can check themselves out and ensure they are looking their best. This dramatic mirror reflects hints at what is to come.

Grand staircase mirror at the Netherland Plaza Hotel

The oversized mirror reflects several stories of the building and the great chandelier above.

Main lobby and registration desks.

Main Lobby and Registration.

Indirect lighting offers a soft romantic feel throughout the main concourse of the hotel.

Intricate metal sconce Netherland Plaza Hotel

One of the many intricate metal sconces.

E. F. Caldwell & Co., the same company that made the lights for Detroit’s Fisher Building, were responsible for the many metal light fixtures in the Netherland Plaza.

Art Deco restroom sign and frieze.

Stylish restroom sign and frieze.

THE PALM COURT 

The Palm Court, originally the hotel’s lounge, is today The 1931 restaurant and the Palm Court Bar. Two-and-one half stories high the space is spectacular. One can easily imagine being on a 1930s ocean liner while sipping a cocktail at the bar.

Looking down on The 1931 and Palm Court Bar from the mezzanine.

A mezzanine view of The 1931 and Palm Court Bar.

Lining the main room are eight floor to ceiling rosewood columns each with a brass wall sconce, providing indirect light for the restaurant and bar. Topping the wall space between the columns are ten French themed murals by Louis Grell (1887-1960). All of the murals feature a stylized outline of the Carew Tower in the background. Surrounding the murals are gold painted, plaster frames of highly stylized Art Deco flora and geometric shapes.

Three Louis Grell's murals that line the upper walls of the Palm Court.

Three out of the ten Detail of the French theme murals that line the upper walls of the Palm Court and stripped multi-tiered ceiling.

The Carew Tower featured in one of the Grell Murals of the Palm Court.

Example of the Carew Tower in the background (between the guitar neck and the red fan), in one of the Grell Palm Court Murals.

The Eastern End of the beautifully restored Palm Court.

Eastern end of the Palm Court. Beautifully restored to its 1931 appearance.

Dominating the far end of the Palm Court is a large ziggurat-shaped fountain topped by a ram’s head. Guarding the fountain are two large seahorses with lotus light crowns. The seahorses and the fountain were made by the Rookwood Pottery Company, and this level also serves as a stage for special occasions.

The Rookwood Palm Court Fountain.

The Rookwood Palm Court Fountain.

Lotus lights topping the two Rookwood seahorses.

Lotus lights topping the two Rookwood seahorses.

Detail of Rookwood seahorse.

Detail of the somewhat intimidating Rookwood seahorse.

MEZZANINE

From the Palm court, there are several ways to access the mezzanine level. You can choose either of the stairs to the right and left of the fountain. Or, you can used the. stairs at the opposite end.

But it is from the mezzanine, you can truly appreciate the details of the chandelier suspended over the grand staircase, and the murals surrounding it.

Netherland Plaza Hotel chandelier in the grand staircase.

A closer look at the chandelier and the Grell Welcome Travelers murals in the grand staircase.

From the mezzanine, you can really appreciate the artisan’s work. Whether viewing the court below or a having a better view of the individual murals. Soft lighting from column lights and sconces flank the stairway leading up to our next stop.

Entrance from the mezzanine to the next upper level.

Entrance to the next level. Note the lighting fixture to the right and left.

A glance back from the landing. The stepped, curved architecture frames the lower mezzanine’s floral carpet. This provides both a transition and a unification of different deco styles.

Stairway to upper mezzanine Netherland Plaza Hotel.

Architecture provides a relief and transition of styles.

Note that the medallion duplicates the carpet’s motif.

Detail of the mezzanine frieze.

Detail of the mezzanine frieze.

THE HALL OF MIRRORS

One short flight up and we enter the Hall of Mirrors’ lobby. This open space is the reception area for guests. As such, there is little ornamentation compared to the lower mezzanine.

Hall of Mirrors reception area.

Hall of Mirrors reception area. Note the carpets floral motif.

Just around the corner from the main reception area is an ornate bar. Molded pilasters decorate the walls and offer a natural divide for the soft tan, peach and taupe paint palette.  And, again, the graphic floral carpet.

I think someone is saying, “Hello!”

Reception bar for the Hall of Mirrors.

Reception bar for the Hall of Mirrors. Hello!

Back in the main reception room, either of the two semi-circular staircases lead to the two story Hall of Mirrors, originally the hotel’s main ballroom. The walls of the staircases are decorated with colorful and contemporary (1984) murals by artist Tom Bacher. They feature stylized views of Cincinnati and the paint is luminescent that glows when the lights are dimmed

Double doors lead onto a grand terrace overlooking the great room.

The Hall of Mirrors at the Netherland Plaza Hotel

First view of the Hall of Mirrors.

The dominant feature of the room is the large painted and gilded ceiling medallion. It offers a soft glow to the room rather than general task lighting.

Central Medallion in the Hall of Mirrors.

Central Medallion in the Hall of Mirrors.

Around the upper tier is a decorative brass guard rail. Also, as found elsewhere in the Netherland Plaza Hotel, low, decorative brass fences provide a barrier to changing levels and offer a level of protection to the large mirrors.

Hall of Mirror guard rails.

Hall of Mirror brass guard rails.

Hall of Mirror guard rails.

Low guard rails in front of corner mirrors.

A view of the staircase clad in Roman Breccia Marble with brass accents descending to the lower level. Note the plaster reliefs on and under the balcony as well as on the walls.

Staircase in the Hall of Mirrors.

Staircase in the Hall of Mirrors.

View of railing from below.

View of railing from below. Note the repeated floral details under the overhang.

A last look at the Hall of Mirrors from the lower level before heading off to a recently unearthed hotel treasure.

The Hall of Mirrors at the Netherland Plaza Hotel

A last look at the Hall of Mirrors.

THE JULEP ROOM

Anthony found an article mentioning a recently uncovered artifact in the Julep Room. We knew the room in question was located near, and could be accessed from the Hall of Mirrors reception area.

A brief search of the lobby and we ascended the only possibility – a staircase off the far end. To be clear, this space is not off limits to guests; just not well known.

Outside the room is this interesting light fixture. This offered us a promise of what was to come.

Ceiling fixture outside the meeting room.

Ceiling fixture outside the meeting room.

This space was originally the hotel’s wedding chapel but after the repeal of Prohibition it was converted into a cocktail lounge. It is now used as a small meeting and reception room for up to 70 guests. And note the ever present floral carpet.

Meeting room in the Netherland Plaza Hotel.

Meeting room in the Netherland Plaza Hotel.

A fairly recent renovation uncovered a formerly unknown, fully milled Brazilian rosewood wall with a “frozen fountain” metal wall grille. This, like most of the 1960s renovations, relied on cover-up rather than tear-out. Thank goodness or this would be lost to time.

The Frozen Fountain Grille

The recently uncovered frozen fountain grille.

The room has eight beautiful sconces in the style of Edgar Brandt.  An octagon wood frame surrounds faceted glass. The floral overlay is cast aluminum with a drape spilling out of the frame and onto the wall.  Thankfully, these escaped being covered up or worse, being  removed during earlier “modernization”.

Meeting room wall sconce.

Meeting room wall sconce. In the style of Edgar Brandt.

After exploring the Julep Room we went back to our room. Just a word about the accommodations. As stylish as the public spaces are, the room is, by comparison, utilitarian. High ceilings with plain clean walls, and crisp bed linens. The bathroom is modern with floating counters and a wall of mirrors.  We grabbed our coats and headed out for dinner.

IN THE NEIGHBORHOOD

After a full day exploring our accommodations, Anthony and I were hungry. There are plenty of restaurants to choose from within walking distance of the hotel.  However, most close around 8:00.

Guess what time we decided to eat?

We passed BRU Burger Bar several times. Mostly because we were looking for something other than a burger.

Time to guess again. Where did we end up?

If you guessed BRU, you guessed correctly. And it couldn’t have been a better choice. It has an industrial pub atmosphere with friendly and attentive servers.

And the food was delicious. So much, in fact, that we went back on our last night in Cincinnati!

There are Deco touches all around. Here are some photos taken during our walk back to the hotel.

It was a long drive from Rochester to Cincinnati, and with our bellies full from dinner, we were pretty tired. Soon after getting back to the hotel it wasn’t long before calling it a night and hitting the hay early. We wanted to be well rested for the next day, when we were meeting up with our friend Suzanne and hitting the 20th Century Cincinnati Vintage Modern Expo in Sharonville. But that is a story for part two of our 2024 driving for deco.

 

Chris and Anthony (The Freakin’, Tiquen Guys)

 

Unless otherwise noted all photographs were taken by the authors.

SOURCES

Written

Duncan, Alastair, American Art Deco, Harry N. Abrams, Inc., 1986

Walking Tour & Pocket History Netherland Plaza: Historic Hotels of America, National Trust for Historic Preservation

Online

historichotels.org