Belle Kogan – 20th Century American Industrial Designer

On a recent trip to one of our local thrift stores, Anthony purchased a silver plate serving dish with a strong streamline design. He instinct made him believe it from the 1930’s. Other than the manufacture’s mark, we knew nothing about it. One of the best parts of researching our finds is learning and educating ourselves about new (to us) designers.

 

Reed & Barton serving dish, designed by Belle Kogan.

1936 Reed & Barton silver plate serving dish, designed by Belle Kogan. From the collection of the author.

The underside of the serving dish.

The underside of the serving dish Belle Kogan designed for Reed & Barton in 1936. From the collection of the author.

 

Made by Reed & Barton and numbered 1605, the markings enabled us to easily research the piece.

Reed & Barton mark on the underside of the Kogan serving dish.

Reed & Barton mark on the underside of the Kogan designed serving dish. From the collection of the author.

 

Belle Kogan designed serving dish.

Serving dish, Reed & Barton silver plate, a Belle Kogan design. From the collection of the author.

Apropos to Women’s History Month we found the designer to be Belle Kogan. She is a pioneer for women in the field of industrial design because she broke through the barriers in a field dominated by men.

 

Belle Kogan "Godmother of Industrial Design" (photo via web)

Belle Kogan “Godmother of Industrial Design” (photo via web)

Born Bella Cohen in Ilyashevka, Russia in 1902 and emigrating with her family to the Allentown, Pa. in 1906, she showed an early interest in art. A teacher, recognizing her natural talent, suggested she enroll in Mechanical Drawing classes.

But on her first day Belle quickly realized she was the only female in the class. A portent of thing to come.

After graduating high school, Belle taught mechanical design to earn enough money to attend Pratt Institute. However the reason for leaving Pratt is unclear. And whether dropping out of her own choosing or pulled out by her father to raise her younger siblings and managing the family jewelry business is up for debate.

Moreover working almost a decade for her father, frustrated by life and in response to her father’s wishes she get married, Belle said:

“Well, I’m going to have a career, goodbye… I am never going to get married and I am never going to have children. I had a family all my life I helped raise. I helped you in business. I want a life of my own.*”

(*Pat Kirkman’s book, Woman Designers in the USA 1900-2000: Diversity and Difference; and Modernism in American Silver by Jewel Stern)

Then in 1929 at the beginning of what became the great depression, her luck changed. The Quaker Silver Company took a chance on the new designer, offering her the opportunity to design pewter and silver items. And pleased with her work, they paid her tuition to study design in Rhode Island, France, Germany, and Czechoslovakia that same year. She credits this opportunity with her understanding that design was work, it didn’t just happen.

As a result of her hard work and being a trusted employee, Quaker Silver offered her the opportunity to set up her own studio as a freelance designer.

And so in 1931, Belle opened the Belle Kogan and Associates in New York City becoming one, if not the first, woman to open her own design firm. But she struggled at first. Securing an appointment with a prospective client (a large appliance manufacturer), they refused to meet with her. Because, they thought they would be meeting with Mr. Belle Kogan. Unfazed, she collected her consulting fees and left.

Unfortunately, this would be repeated several times in her early career. Often, dismissed by men solely based on her gender. Or worse, prospective male clients wanting a more personal relationship over the professional one she hoped to cultivate.

Her innovative and elegant designs eventually attracted high-end clients. For Reed & Barton, she designed silver plate serving pieces with a modern, linear design,  including the serving dish Anthony found.

 

Belle Kogan's covered double vegetable dish for Reed & Barton, 1936.

Belle Kogan’s double vegetable dish, manufactured by Reed & Barton in 1936. Image from www.core77.com

And for Telechron the whimsical duck-shaped alarm clock.

 

In addition, for Zippo, sleek modern lighters.

Subsequently she designed jewelry for Tiffany and Co. And then created the successful Belle Kogan 100-line (1938-1940) for Red Wing Pottery.

 

Likewise for Red Wing Potteries, her Prizmatique line (1962).

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Moreover, she worked in every medium: wood, glass, ceramic, plastics, and metals. Above all, by 1939, she supported fellow female designers by hiring three women to assist in her design firm.

Eventually Belle closed her New York studio in 1970 and moved to Israel to work with KV Designs. Subsequently leaving them is 1972, she became a highly sought design consultant.

And true to her word, she never married and had no children. Finally recognized for her contributions to 20th century design, the “Godmother of Industrial Design” passed away in 2000 living life on her terms.

 

Chris & Anthony (The Freakin’, ‘Tiquen Guys)

A Jazz Bowl – Find of a Lifetime!

Arguably one of the most iconic and desirable ceramic pieces of Art Deco is Viktor Schreckengost’s original Jazz Bowl.  And no, I didn’t find one.  Then again, read on.

One of six children, Viktor Schreckengost was born in 1906 to a ceramicist father. His father actively encouraged his children’s creatively and brought them, in turn, to his job. Then, something seemed to connect with Viktor. He attended the Cleveland School of Arts studying graphic design wanting to be a cartoonist, not a ceramic designer. Graduating in 1929, he earned a partial scholarship to study in Vienna at the Kunstgewerbeschule. Two of his brothers Donald and Paul, also went into careers as ceramicists.

Then, in 1931, a woman commissioned a large punch bowl through a New York galley that contracted with Cowan Pottery. She specified the design to be something “New Yorkish” as a gift to her husband.  25-year-old Viktor Schreckengost, working part-time for his former teacher, Guy Cowan, designed a bold Egyptian blue and black bowl inspired by his fond memories of New Year’s Eve in the city. He submitted his design and Cowan subsequently selected to turn his idea into reality.

And the design does invoke the lights of Broadway and Times Square, jazz music and popular Follies shows, speak-easies with their illegal cocktails, and skyscrapers against a star-filled sky. The New Yorker Bowl (dubbed the Jazz Bowl) captures that frenetic energy of the city.

Because she was pleased with end result, the customer ordered two more!  It was then Viktor learned that his commission was from Eleanor Roosevelt as a gift for her governor husband, Franklin D. Roosevelt. One bowl was to reside in the White House, confident her husband would win the Presidential election the following year.

And being a noteworthy and successful design, Cowan Pottery produced a small series of similar bowls. But, they could not keep up with demand. The decoration is achieved by the sgraffito process. And this decorative technique required glazing a piece of ceramic twice, with each layer being a contrasting color. Then time-consuming hand work of scratching the design outside and inside to reveal the color underneath meant Cowan could produce only 1 bowl a day.

In order to streamline manufacturing and production costs, Schreckengost reworked the bowl. The new, first, redesign incorporates a raised design in the original blue and black glaze, a flared lip for stability during firing and with a slight modification to the design motif.  The second redesign eliminates the interior decoration. This bowl could be ordered  in the original blue, melon-green, guava-yellow or black glaze.  There is only one example of the bowl in poly-chrome.

The “Poor Man’s” Jazz Bowl refers to the second redesign and originally sold for $25.00 ($424.29 – 2020 dollars) as opposed to the original design sold for $50.00 ($848.59 – 2020 dollars).

But Schreckengost’s redesign did not save the line or the company and production of the series was discontinued.

Founded by R. Guy Cowan, the Cowan Pottery Studio opened in 1912.  And the once successful and prolific ceramic company became another victim of the depression resulting in its bankruptcy in 1931.

As for Viktor Schreckengost, he enjoyed a long and productive life as a major 20th Century industrial designer.  He taught at his alma mater for more than 50 years until his death. He died in Florida surrounded by family on January 26, 2008 at age 101.

And what does all this have to do with me, you ask?  I recently had a day off from work to attend to some doctors appointments. After my first appointment, I intended to drive and make another appointment with a different doctor. But my brain went into auto-mode and I missed the exit. Not wanting to turn around, I decide to stop at my local Goodwill store to kill some time.

With nothing of interest on the shelves, I started to leave when an announcement stated a cart of items was coming out. Confronted by three women and their shopping carts blocking my way, what to do?  Taking a cursory looked at the newly released items I didn’t want to butt into their shopping experience.  And seeing nothing of interest, I again started to leave.  But then, some voice in my head said, “Go back, and take another look.”

And I did.

On the bottom shelf, filled with other items I saw IT!  A truly, “I can’t be looking at what I think I am.” moment.  I quickly grabbed my find, running to the other end of the store.  Taking and sending pictures off to Anthony I asked him if there was any interest.  His first response, “How ugly is it?”  “Not too bad.”, I responded.  He texted back saying for that price, get it as we could always use it as a Halloween candy bowl. A minute or two later his text read, ” I don’t think its a repro!!!”

Oh, I didn’t mention the asking price, $4.49.

And so, no, I didn’t find THE Jazz Bowl.  But I did find the later version, the “Poor Man’s” Jazz Bowl at the local thrift store. The smaller of the bowl designs, this version has the  melon-green glaze.  It is “Signed” Viktor Schreckengost on the side.  Impressed with “Cowan” on the bottom, it measures 8 1/4 inches high and 13 5/8 inches diameter at the rim.

I think I did well!

Chris & Anthony (the Freakin’,’tiquen Guys)